Depends on context

Hydroxyacetophenone

Last reviewed

What it is

Hydroxyacetophenone (4'-hydroxyacetophenone, CAS 99-93-4) is a phenolic compound, structurally related to acetophenone, used in cosmetics and personal-care products as an antioxidant, skin-conditioning agent, and 'preservative booster' — it doesn't reliably kill microbes on its own but enhances the effectiveness of other preservatives (like phenoxyethanol or organic acids) so formulators can use less of them. It's most widely known under Symrise's trade name SymSave H, introduced around 2013 as part of a wave of alternatives to parabens and MIT/MCI. It's also FEMA GRAS-listed (FEMA No. 4330) as a food flavoring substance and occurs naturally (as 'piceol') at 0.4-1.1% dry weight in Norway spruce (Picea abies) needles. Per CIR's 2022 review of FDA/industry survey data, it's used in 791 cosmetic formulations, mostly leave-on (moisturizers, face/neck products), including 5 reported uses in baby products (concentration not reported for that category).

Why it's flagged

Three things push this into 'watch' rather than 'fine' or 'avoid.' First, it's a newer entrant to baby-product formulations, so infant-specific, long-term-use data is thin. Second, animal testing compiled by CIR found Hydroxyacetophenone to be a SEVERE eye irritant: in rabbit Draize testing, an unrinsed application scored 63/110 (severe irritant), and even rinsed within 30 seconds it scored 22/110 (moderate irritant), with corneal opacity and ulceration noted in a separate study — a real, documented finding relevant to a product used near a baby's face. Third, it carries a real acute oral toxicity Category 4 / H302 classification ('harmful if swallowed') on supplier safety data sheets, consistent with the oral LD50 of 2240 mg/kg bw CIR cites in rats — relevant given some reported cosmetic uses involve incidental ingestion. By contrast, a formal skin-sensitization hazard classification (H317) is NOT well supported for this specific isomer: every controlled sensitization study CIR compiled (a guinea pig Buehler test, a guinea pig maximization test, and three separate human repeat-insult patch tests up to 5%) came back negative, though one published case report exists of a 79-year-old man with a positive patch-test reaction to 0.6% aqueous Hydroxyacetophenone (in the context of pre-existing dermatitis from other products).

How concerned to be

The major review that exists lands on 'safe as currently used,' not 'hazard-free.' The U.S. Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated Hydroxyacetophenone in its September 2022 final report and concluded it is safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in the assessment — reported use concentrations range up to 0.23% in eye-area products, up to 0.6% in products that could contact mucous membranes, and up to 5% in leave-on night creams, paste masks, and mud packs. The Panel cited a favorable overall toxicological profile: negative results across genotoxicity assays (bacterial reverse mutation, mouse lymphoma, sister chromatid exchange, in vitro cell transformation, and an in vivo micronucleus assay), no carcinogenicity red flags, and a GLP-adjacent OECD TG 422 reproductive/developmental screening study (oral doses of 0, 40, 150, and 600 mg/kg bw/day in rats) that found no toxicologically significant parental or offspring effects, with a NOAEL of 600 mg/kg bw/day. Dermal irritation and sensitization testing was consistently negative, including at the 5% maximum reported use concentration. Set against that favorable profile: the ingredient was rated a severe eye irritant in rabbit testing, and it carries a real H302 acute-oral-toxicity classification on supplier SDS documentation. Sensitization risk looks low based on the controlled testing available, but the existence of one clinical case report of an allergic reaction to it (in a leave-on facial product) means it isn't zero, and a formal pediatric-specific safety assessment doesn't exist. Net: reasonable to accept in a rinse-off wipe formula at typical low percentages; worth more caution in any product intended for use very near a baby's eyes, and worth a second look if a baby shows any skin reaction to a product containing it.

What it's called on a label

Look for any of these on an ingredient list: 4'-Hydroxyacetophenone, p-Hydroxyacetophenone, 4-Hydroxyacetophenone, HAP, SymSave H (trade name), Piceol, Hydroxyacetophenone.

Sources

  1. Safety Assessment of Hydroxyacetophenone as Used in Cosmetics (Final Report), Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel (2022)
  2. 4'-Hydroxyacetophenone — REACH Registration Dossier, European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) (2020)
  3. 4-Hydroxyacetophenone (Aldrich 278564) — Safety Data Sheet, Sigma-Aldrich (Merck) (2014)
  4. HYDROXYACETOPHENONE — Skin Deep Database, Environmental Working Group (EWG) (2024)